Hiking the Chilkoot Trail

Day 1: Whitehorse to Bennett Lake

Today marked the beginning of a big adventure – hiking the Chilkoot Trail. Excitement and a tinge of nervousness filling the air as we gathered as a group for the first time yesterday in the lobby of the Steamroller Hotel. Awesome dinner out last night at The Belly of the Bison where we enjoyed delicious meals and a glass of wine for the last time until our return. Flying into Whitehorse yesterday was stunning; glittering blue rivers snaking through the greenest, lushest forests. It really does feel very wild up here. 

Whitehorse is delightful; feels like stepping back in time. Relics and tales from the Klondike Gold Rush are everywhere. The Yukon Star newspaper building is a bright sky-blue wooden structure with white trim and a sign that looks like it was carved in 1900. The river – so fast-moving! – is ringed with tiny yellow, white, and purple flowers, and is every shade of blue/green/gray. I’m not sure how many times in the past 24 hours I’ve thought the terms “awe-inspiring” and “breath-taking” to myself! Hint: many.

We had our Parks Canada orientation at 11 AM before doing a short and easy hike in Miles Canyon to Upper Canyon City. Walked over a very cool, narrow, bouncy wooden suspension bridge over the river, which was Colgate toothpaste-coloured aqua. Thin white birches galore.

Half the group flew to Bennett from Whitehorse while the rest (me included) bussed to Fraser Lake at the US/Canada border where the Yukon Pass train rumbled through, looking antique and cool. Bit of a hiccup had us waiting there in the cold wind for a few hours with no lunch – was regretting life choices a little bit, worried about being freezing all week. Of course, until we found out the reason for the delay, my mind was spiraling re: float plane crash (Sean was in the other group). Alas, it was just a weight issue with too many hikers and packs – and the giant watermelon we’d brought for dinner! Had to wait for a second plane to take everyone safely, after which ours finally arrived.

Our short float plane ride to Bennett Lake was – no other word – majestic. A land of trees and lakes, from deep amber brown to rich emerald to purest pale blue. The water we waded through to get onto the plane’s pontoon was surprisingly warmer than expected! Thought it would be glacial.

Communal dinner of baguette, pasta and potato salads, roast chicken, apples, watermelon and pie was akin to some of the best meals I’ve had in restaurants; we were so hungry! So much about eating together outside like that reminded me of being on the Pacific Grace. I love that feeling.

Camp at Bennett is magic. Sitting in a bright red Adirondack at the lake’s edge, the lapping lake is all I hear currently. Perfect puff clouds and rusty pieces of Gold Rush cast-offs all around. Hunks of glass bottles in all shades of purple, teal, aqua, green and brown are everywhere. Some pieces glint through the moss as if they were molten chunks of mortar. Have taken far too many ‘artsy’ (ha) photos of it all!