Hiking the Chilkoot Trail

What a glorious, difficult day! We got an early start with breakfast at 7:30 AM. Sean added a crumbled ‘lemon meringue pie‘ protein bar to our muesli, which was quite delicious, along with my coffee + hot chocolate mocha.

(Dinner last night, lest I forget (ha), was Mandarin Beef Stir Fry, which was just okay, followed by half of a Nature Valley oats & honey granola bar, split with Sean. I was warm and cozy last night – no complaints.)

Got on the trail at 9 AM-ish with a clean shirt (!!) and a lighter pack, thanks to leaving tents, air mattresses, toiletries and extra food behind at camp. The day’s hike began in a cold, wet, foggy drizzle but nothing could dampen the beauty of the wildflowers, snowy peaks, rushing streams, and rocky slopes. So many gorgeous types of flowers I want to look up when we’re back in civilization. Sean was representing AirCanada hard with his homemade pack cover – must tag them in a photo!

I successfully crossed a rapidly-flowing creek early on (two poles really are better than one!) which gave me some confidence back. We passed some of the time discussing what we’re excited to eat when we get back to civilization. Mine: glass of rosé, fries, Coffee Crisp, Lucky Charms. Others: pizza, beer, burger, McDonald’s, beef dip (Sean), Kraft Dinner.

The fog and drizzle really socked in all morning, and we were a bit concerned about getting to the pass safely. We did take a few wrong trails in the gloom, but always realized shortly thereafter and got sorted quickly enough. Part of the morning’s hike took us through what felt like a West Coast beach! Fog, sand, rocky bits… are we in Ucluelet?!

Today’s hike also brought some icy snow-patch traversing! Very slippery and kind of scary, as we could see how thin and overhung the edges were. As we got higher, we only got wetter, and my pack and pants were soaked by the time we got to the pass. We saw the couple from camp yesterday in the Summit Hut – Mary and Vince from Calgary – who had brought a homemade, dehydrated lunch of spaghetti bolognese up. Made our meagre rations of granola and protein bars seem a bit lacking!

The hut and outhouse at the top look like something from the Matterhorn ride at Disneyland. We clambered to the sign and historical antique-y rusted paraphernalia at the actual summit for the triumphant photo op. Huddled in the hut for snacks and to write postcards to future selves which will be delivered in about a year – such a great idea. We didn’t stay long at the top, due to chill and fog.

Wonder of wonders, as we came down past Crater Lake, the clouds parted and the scene was breathtaking. All shades of aqua in the lake and the sun dazzling off the snow patches. We even managed to dry out fully on the way back! It was 6 km out and another 6 km back to Happy. We were going to stop for a late lunch of ramen and keep going to Deep Lake, but a group of twelve who was supposed to be at Happy wasn’t, and we suspected they’d be at Deep along with Mary and Vince, so no room for us there. (I was secretly thrilled to not have to go any further today!)

Sun was shining in camp, and once the tent (soaked from pack up this AM, but dried quickly) was up, I had a full “bath” with wet wipes – blissful. Also washed a pair of undies in the river, very exciting! We played Yahtzee and chatted for a while before a late dinner of ‘Chilli Fiesta’, which was pretty good but I wasn’t that hungry after ramen, protein bar and granola bar just a few hours prior. I had been starving all day though, so hopefully I’m now better fuelled for tomorrow.

River is burbling by and we’re tucked into the warm tent. Each night at dinner we do a round of “our best moment of the day” and our guide Dayna reads a Robert Service poem – so lovely. I am bodily exhausted but feel so good: content, spent. Another day in the mountains done.